Home Sickness and Final Reflections

Greetings from Boone,

My trip from Korea was horrific. I became sick a couple of hours before boarding, and didn't know what to do. Should I stay in Korea and be sick? I went ahead and got on the plane, but things became worse, and I was visiting the airplane bathroom every half hour with nausea and vomiting. Weak and tired, I finally plopped myself down on the flight attendents' jump seat, which was right outside the bathroom, figuring there was no point in returning to my seat, I'd only be back within half an hour. I was too weak to sit up, so I laid down as best I could on the jump seat. Naturally, this drew undue attention from the crew ("You can't stay there!"). However, I was quite helpless. I needed to lie down, but there was nowhere to do so. It was a full plane, with every kind of passenger, like something out of a Star Wars bar scene.

A lovely Asian flight attendant asked if I would like a doctor paged. I weakly inclined my head, and shortly thereafter appeared a geeky-looking Asian guy, about 35-ish, inquiring after my symptoms. Directly thereafter appeared a kindly-looking 60-something American doctor, apologizing to the younger doc, who sidestepped, saying he was really only an orthopedist. Ordinarily, I would have found all the attention flattering. After a brief assessment, it was decided that I needed to be moved where I could lie down, and I eventually was placed in 1st class. I guess they figured I wasn't in any condition to enjoy it. True enough. However, it was a vast improvement. I could then have my sickness bags by my side, and not have to make my way to the bathroom. It had to be the most un-enjoyable first class ticket anyone in that section had ever bought, what with my incessant retching.

After 10 hours of sleeping and retching by turns, I started to feel better, albeit not brilliant. I've made it home and to my bed, where I continue to recover from what now appears to be a cold. This is the most mixed up bunch of symptoms I've ever had.

I have been wanting to get back to my blog for my final entry, especially after a question my dad asked me on the phone as I drove home from Charlotte. "What's the most memorable part of your trip?"

I thought I had the answer, but then realized there really is no simple way to answer that. The answer is multi-faceted. When I look back on this trip, so many things race through my head. I think of so many things, on so many different levels. I rode a bike 489 kms through Cambodia. Let me say that again. I RODE A BIKE 489 KMS THROUGH CAMBODIA!! I raised money and awareness about human trafficking and sex slavery. I met Somaly Mam, a survivor of sex slavery, and the founder of the organization I raised money for. I saw the love in her eyes for the girls at her shelter, and felt her generosity in her home. I saw the pride in the young survivors eyes, and heard them speak with conviction of their rights as women and as human beings. I heard them speak of the power they have to succeed and live normal lives. I had tea at the Australian Embassy.

I did all these things, which far exceeded any expectations I had. I learned more than I can list here. Some of what I learned includes the leaving home and traveling to a completely different culture and undergoing extreme mental and physical stress can play havoc with your mind. You may find that you doubt yourself in ways you never have before. And, you can find strengths you never knew you possessed. Without anything familiar except what you've brought in your carry-on is very humbling, and winnows one down to realizing it's what's inside of you that really matters. And who you care about back home. I learned that much as I like to think I'm a world traveler, I find most comfort in familiar things, and that coming home, and home itself, is good. I learned that I like to write now as much as I did when I was a kid. I learned about myself, yes, but I learned more. I learned about the country. It will never leave me, I'm sure.

Cambodia is a country which in recent past experienced horrific genocide by the Khmer Rouge. While in Phenom Penh, I visited S-21, once a high school, now a museum, but between the years of 1975 and 1979 was a center of torture. I learned that during the Pol Pot regime, anyone with an education was killed. Doctors, teachers, engineers, monks, all killed. Pol Pot wished to create an agrarian society which served only him. One of our guides, a brilliant young man af about 37, told me the story of how, when he was eight years old, his parents were taken from him. For two years he had no idea where they were. Then he learned they had been killed. They had been dead for two years. This happened to countless children, who are now adults.

We went to the killing fields, and saw the thousands upon thousands of skulls which have been collected, the ditches the bodies had been thrown into. We saw the tree the children were bashed against to kill them before they were thrown into the pits.

The result of the genocide and the Khmer Rouge is still evident today. The country's infrastructure is fragile. Cambodians are untrusting. They will not help each other out in most situations. They look out only for themselves and their immediate family. Corruption is rampant. I was told that Cambodia is number 5 on the list of most corrupt governments. Although the Khmer Rouge is not in power today, the members have not disappeared. They have removed their uniforms and returned to their towns, only to hold positions in government there. Those who committed the war crimes have not been brought to trial. The Cambodians who suffered under the regime may never see the criminals brought to justice, as it appears those in power wish to delay the trials until those accused die a natural death. The Cambodians feel betrayed by their own, and forgotten by the world.

I had conversations with other riders about what we were doing, about the rightness of it, and questioned that. I posed the question, is it right to impose one's beliefs on another culture? We looked at some of the fundamental differences between the philosophies of the East and the West - the East believing in the sacrifice of the individual for the benefit of the group. In the West, we believe in the priority of the individual over the group. This, it appears, is how a family can justify sacrificing a daughter to sex slavery for the betterment and survival of the family - she will work - and suffer, yes - but she will be able to send money home so the family can survive. This is a matter of course. So, I wondered, who are we as Westerners to come in and upset the applecart? Do we have a right? But for the fact that this organization was started and is being run my a Cambodian woman and other grassroots individuals, I would have had an even tougher time with this dilemma.

So it is not so easy to answer the question of what is most memorable about my trip. I sincerely hope I will not forget any of it. I have seen much, thought much, and learned much. Upon reflection, remembering shouldn't be too tough. It was unforgettable.


Be Well.
Lisa

Homeward Bound

Hello Everyone -

And thank you for sticking with me on this incredibly arduous journey. It has beean a challenge in so many ways. I have learned so much about myself on so many different levels. I have done more than I ever would have thought possible.

Yesterday I cycled over 60 miles. One hundred and one kilometers. I am amazed at myself. The ride was through neverending, undulating hill country, some very steep, with sealed roads giving way to dirt and gravel at the bottom, where you fly so fast, all you can do is hold on tight to the handlebars, stand up on the pedals, and let the bike take most of the shock. That is fun. The kind of fun where before you know it's fun, you are saying, "holy crap," and know there is nothing you can do at this point, no turning back, decisions have been made, the next determining second is here, and you will either be terrifically injured, or will victoriously carry on to the next murderously painful challenge. Then you try and gather your strength for a moment or two, standing on the pedals, feeling some wind in your face as your chest heaves for breath, knowing that to make it up the next hill, you had better get going with the pedalling, gearing up only to gear back down again, calling on every ounce of physical and mental strength to not unclip your shoes from the pedals, put your foot down, and stop. No, I did not stop. Wow.

When we cycled into the hotel parking lot about 3:00 yesterday afternoon, there was wild celebration. Tears, laughter, water being dumped on each other, dumped on ourselves, screaming, whooping, high fiving, high tenning...it was pure, unbridled elation, the likes of which I believe is only experienced by individuals who have morphed into something bigger than themselves - a team - where the sense of elation is multiplied exponentially.

Well, I must sign off for now, as I have two folks waiting for this one lone and decrepit computer in Sihanoukville, Cambodia. I will write once again when I return to the states, probably on Thursday.

Love to all, be safe, be well, and do more than you thought, because you can.

Lisa

P.S. It was not with complete regret that I bid adieu to the Beast. But she served me well, and I was grateful to her.

On the Road Again!

Greetings to All!!

I have spent the last three days in Phenom Penh, exploring, relaxing, touring, shopping, and most of all, recovering. All that comes to an end tomorrow morning, bright and early. With a 6:30 launch time, and most certainly continued sweltering heat, reality will be a bitter pill to swallow. My muscles still ache in my legs. It still hurts to climb a single step, despite an amazing Cambodian massage.

However, the recent past has been amazing, and productive. Some events have come to pass that I never imagined when I signed up for this fundraiser. We were surprised by an invitation from Somaly Mam to join her at her home for lunch and the Phenom Penh shelter to participate in the resident young women's celebration of International Women's Day.

Both events were wonderful. Somaly's home is beautiful and welcoming, with a pool shaded by tropical foliage in front, and a gazebo in the midst of a virtual blooming orchid forest - some varieties of which I've never before seen - in back. Somaly made us all feel at home, saying, "Feel as though this were your own house. Come in, swim, eat, wander at your leisure. Take a nap on my bed if you wish!" She joked and laughed with us while girls from the shelter made us a delicious and varied Cambodian lunch.

Upon our arrival at the shelter, we were honored by the girls, who stood lined up on either side of the entryway, clapping in staccato rhythm as we walked past them. As the local media filmed, we listened to speaches by government officials, Somaly, and several of the residents, all thanking us for our committment and arduous ride, leaving our country to come accross the world to help them. We later joined them in outdoor games, and spent the afternoon together.

Today was a big day as well, with tea at the Autralian Embassy, again honoring us for our trek to raise money and awareness for this cause. We presented Somaly Mam with a check for $75,000.00, all earned from our fundraising (can you believe what you did??!!).

So here sit several fellow riders and myself at the computers of this nice hotel we have stayed at in Pheenom Penh, blogging and emailing away to friends and family back home, knowing that it might be 2-3 days before we can be in contact again. When we spend the night in the countryside, our hotels will be quite sketchy - or dodgy as the Aussies like to say. Not my favorite.

I have decided to name my bike "the Beast." The Beast and I will be rejoined tomorrow...it will be an ambivilent reunion.

With love and care - till next time -

Lisa and the Beast

Phnom-omenal

Greetings from Phnom Penh!

A bustling city, filled with museums, shopping for fine handicrafts, and incredible architecture. We've only just arrived, and I haven't been out of the hotel yet. We will be here for three days - enough time to get road dirt and dust out of our pores and do some laundry - with 2 days break from riding to enjoy this mad city. Our guides actually gave us directions for how to cross the street (if it's bigger than you, wait, if they are just motos, cross at a consistent pace, and they will go around you). Needless to say (or perhaps not, considering the intensity of the trip), we will not be cycling while here - too dangerous.

In the way of catch up (Chris, you'll appreciate this...), yesterday's ride was from hell - no offense, there's just no nice way to say it. No joke. We rode 72 kms, and the temperature was between 100 - 110 F. The roads were bumpy and sandy, and I took my first spill. I was doing so great, really feeling good about myself, negotiating the sand, not fishtailing, avoiding the potholes for the most part. Suddenly, the bike was out from under me. Just like that. No warning. Just me, and the dirt. Getting acquainted, up close. After doing so well, I was very disgruntled with the event. I got some scrapes, but the biggest bruise was to my pride and momentum. All in all, very minor. I really wanted to quit a few times due to the heat, but (yes Chris [my trainer] :-)) I kept going. It feels fabulously good to surpass what you thought you could do. When the tortuous ride was over, there was time and cause to laugh in retrospect.

Today, the group rode about 62 kms, I about 40, as I felt I was getting gastro infection during the first morning ride. Most folks on the trip have had a 24 bout of it already. So I rode the second leg in the van ( I confess!!), felt better, and got back on the bike for the 3rd leg. My seat is killing me from the rough roads, but overall, I am able to do so much more and with more enjoyment than I could the first days. I can tell my legs are stronger, and my body becoming accustomed to the whole ordeal.

Today we crossed a bridge with spaces wide enough to give you the willies. We see oxen, cows in the road, dogs chase us, but the best thing is the children who come to stand at the edge of the road and shout ouut to us whatever they know in English - usually, "Hellooo!! How are yoooou!" Sometimes, "Heellobyebye!!' Often they are without clothes, and when we call back, they giggle and laugh like it was the funniest thing in the whole world. They stretch out their hands for us to touch as we ride by, older brothers and sisters holding up the babies for us to touch.

When I get really tired, and feel I can't go on any more, the children along the road get me through.

So much more to tell, but I must go and get ready for dinner. We plan to go to kareoke with our Cambodian guide this evening. It should be incredibly amusing. Asian Kareoke. Can't wait.

Hope all are well - love to all.

Good morning all -

And fulfilling a requested specific hello to my pops, my daughter, and a shout out to Jamie.

It is 6:00 am. Been up since 4:30, packing and getting ready to hit the bikes for 60 kilometers today - our longest ride so far. We head to Kampong Chang, a small provincial Cambodian city, which, described by our guide, sounds pastoral and lovely. we should be obn the bikes for about 8 hours total.

I don't know when I'll have access to a computer again, so I thought I'd write one more time. In the next couple of days, we will be visiting another shelter, this one for he very young - from 5 - 17 years. I imagine this one will be even more difficult.

In my desire to relate my experiences with the cycling and the shelter, I was remiss in sharing that on my first day here, I rode an elephant. A bit hesitant at first, knowing that these magnificent animals have often historicaly been abused by trainers, I was informed that in fact these elephants are well cared for...so I was in. While not very comfortable (to say the very least), an elephant's back does afford a great view from way up there. My new friend and fellow rider Becca, the elephant, and I, waltzed around the ancient temples of Angkor (built and resided in from 800 to 1200) for a good hour, feeling quite regal together.

Al the best,
Lisa

Hello Friends and Family -

It has been forever, it seems, since my arrival in Cambodia. Is it possible to fit more than one day in a day? Perhaps that is why, at the end of each, I am completely wiped out, exhausted, dripping with sweat and every part of my body hurting. The other (younger) riders head jovially out for dinner, as I drag myself to my room for a shower and a quick read before bed, hoping that by so doing, I will refresh myself for the next grueling day of relentless sun, heat, and pedaling seemingly endless roads.

In the morning, however, I do arise refreshed, and thrilled to be here, handling the bike well through the traffic in the city, and negotiating the bumpy, unpaved roads of the countryside. The experiences I'd like to tell you about are myriad. How there really are no traffic laws in this city (Siem Reap) whatsoever. Somehow, as if predesigned, everyone seemlessly and without apparent tension or frustration, melds together into a cohesive traffic pattern, and appearing to do so to classical music. Drivers don't even glance to the left as they make their right turns into traffic. During our cycling orientation, we were told just to watch other drivers tires, and they will "tell you"which way the driver is going. Unbelievably, it works.

And I wish I knew how to upload photos onto this hotel computor, so I could show you the beautiful faces of the children I have shot while here. I would show you the colors - so vibrant, yet so complimentary, of the buildings, the clothing. (If anyone out there knows how to do this, please send me a note. I tried to use Picasa on gmail, but have thus far been unsuccesssful.)

To me, this trip is about completing the commitment to cycle for the cause, visiting the shelters of the Foundation to learn more about its work, and absorbing knowledge about another culture - different from ours in every imaginable facet.

Today, one of our ventures was visiting a shelter for women who have been offered a second chance at life, to escape the perils and hopelessness of a life of prostitution. The name of the NGO shelter is AEFSIP, an acronym which, when translated from the French means roughly, aid to women in dangerous circumstances. Their involvement in the rescue of women in forced prostitution or sex slavery begins with a report from a citizen willing to help. It might be a taxi driver, suspicious of a bar, hotel, or Karaoke club employing or prostitutung underage girls. Evidence is gathered, and when sufficient, AEFSIP reports the information to the police, accompanies them to the investigation, and observes. Although AEFSIP has no authority to intervene, they organize the media and photographers to document police intervention, ensuring against bribery of the police by pimps or brothel owners. The young women are then informed about the shelter, and given the choice to reside there. The shelter offers medical, psychological, and emotional support, as well as teaching literacy and a viable trade for entrpreneurship or employment. Upon graduation, AEFSIP remains involved with the women for three years, ensuring support and success as much as possible.

I confess being close to tears on several ocassions today while visiting the shelter. We saw the girls learning to plan, design, and cut a pattern for sewing. They are learning English. There is pride in their faces, and those who have been at the shelter for some time look joyful. There was one girl who had only been there for one month, and it was apparent she was still a fish out of water - looking a bit lost and alone - untrusting.

We spent several hours with the girls, they fixed us lunch, played some outdoor games, sang, and hugged us hard when it was time to leave.

I hope you all are well. I miss you and think of ALL of you as I struggle to pull that pedal around one more time.

Lisa

Day 1 - Sat 28th Feb: Arrive Siem Reap
Day 2 - Sun 1 March: Bike fitting & cycle to Angkor wat
Day 3 - Mon 2 March: Siem Reap Shelter Visit
Day 4 - Tues 3 March: Beng Melea temple & Kampong Cham
Day 5 - Wed 4 March: Kampong Cham to Phnom Penh
Day 6 - Thurs 5 March: Visit Phnom Penh Shelter
Day 7 - Fri 6 March: Rest day in Phnom Penh
Day 8 - Sat 7 March: Phnom Penh to Takeo
Day 9 - Sun 8 March: Takeo to Kampot
Day 10 - Mon 9 March: Kampot to Sihanoukville
Day 11 - Tues 10 March: Transfer to Phnom Penh - depart evening flight

We will get off the beaten track in Cambodia, as we blaze a trail from the glories of the Angkor Wat temples outside of Siem Reap, to some of the less known and visted Khmer sites, pedal by the side of the Mekong River to the capital city of Phnom Penh, then sweep southwards through rural provinces to finish by the tropical beaches of Sihanoukville.
This will be a real journey of discovery, pedaling along quiet back roads and passing through sleepy villages, we'll see the beauty of rural Cambodia up close and experience the pace of life that has not changed much since the time of the Khmers.